Vegan Ceramide Barrier Face Cream

These describe what an ingredient is, not whether it is a problem. The stance marks above are the ratings; these are not.

• humectantglycerin, sodium PCA

  • glycerin: A humectant, and one of the two ingredients a comparison of moisturiser components found made a significant difference to skin hydration. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(h), lists glycerin as a skin protectant at 20 to 45%. On the humectant half: Jeong CB, Han JY, Cho JC, Suh KD, Nam GW, "Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components", Int J Cosmet Sci 2013;35(4):402-410, DOI 10.1111/ics.12059, PMID 23621673, found that "glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants".
  • sodium PCA: The salt of PCA, one of the water-holding substances the outer layer of skin makes for itself. Dörner C, Steinbinder J, Sachslehner AP, Sukseree S, Eckhart L, "Amino Acid Metabolism of the Skin: Control by Specific Enzymes and Contribution to Protective Functions", Metabolites 2025;15(9):601, DOI 10.3390/metabo15090601, open access, section "Glutamine Is Converted to Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, a Component of the NMF": "pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), also known as pyroglutamic acid or 5-oxoproline, accumulates in the stratum corneum."

• barrier lipidceramide NP, cholesterol

  • ceramide NP: One of the lipid families the skin barrier is actually built from. Feingold KR and Elias PM, "The role of ceramides in the disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier, a common manifestation of skin disorders", J Lipid Res 2024;65(8):100593, DOI 10.1016/j.jlr.2024.100593, open access: the barrier lipid matrix "by weight is approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids".
  • cholesterol: One of the three lipid classes that make up the skin barrier, alongside ceramides and fatty acids. Feingold KR and Elias PM, J Lipid Res 2024, open access: the barrier lipid matrix "by weight is approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids". Corroborated by Wertz PW, "Roles of Lipids in the Permeability Barriers of Skin and Oral Mucosa", Int J Mol Sci 2021;22(10):5229, DOI 10.3390/ijms22105229, PMID 34063352.

• soothingniacinamide, avena sativa kernel flour

  • niacinamide: A vitamin B3 form that supports the skin barrier and has anti-inflammatory activity; it turns up in products aimed at acne, rosacea and eczema. Camillo L, Zavattaro E, Savoia P, "Nicotinamide: A Multifaceted Molecule in Skin Health and Beyond", Medicina (Kaunas) 2025;61(2):254, DOI 10.3390/medicina61020254, PMID 40005371, open access: it "is extensively used in ... the treatment of dermatological conditions such as blistering diseases, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and acne vulgaris", and contributes to reducing inflammation. On the acne evidence specifically: Liu H, Yu H, Xia J, Liu L, Liu GJ, Sang H, Peinemann F, "Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) for acne", Cochrane Database Syst Rev 2020;5:CD011368, DOI 10.1002/14651858.CD011368.pub2, PMID 32356369, records "low-quality evidence" for every nicotinamide comparison it could pool, and none of its four nicotinamide studies measured the physician global assessment at all.
  • avena sativa kernel flour: One of the ingredients the FDA recognises by name as an over-the-counter skin protectant for irritation and itching. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(f): "Colloidal oatmeal, 0.007 percent minimum; 0.003 percent minimum in combination with mineral oil in accordance with 347.20(a)(4)."; section 347.50(b)(4) gives it the indication "temporarily protects and helps relieve minor skin irritation and itching due to:" followed by at least one of rashes, eczema, poison ivy/oak/sumac, or insect bites. The indication is conditional on naming a cause; the same opening phrase also serves sodium bicarbonate at (b)(5), so the phrase alone does not identify oatmeal.